Depending on your frame, it may be necessary to put spacers
under the chainstay sensor. The idea is to have the chain about
5mm above the sensor in the small/small cog combination. Some
bikes require no spacers, some require as much as a full
centimeter.
If the cadence signal is lost, power goes with it. The cadence
magnet can be tough to keep in place on some crankarms. In
addition to the zip tie, a piece of gummy rubber between the crank
and the magnet helps. It may be necessary to point the
crank/cadence magnet inward to get the cadence sensor working
properly. When pedaling, scroll to the cadence display on the
S720i to determine if the cadence sensor is working.
Make sure the two contacts on the back of the watch are fully
seated against the contacts on the handlebar mount.
The best wire routing scheme for the rear derailleur sensor
involves zip tie-ing the wire to the main pivot point of the rear
derailleur, rather than a large dangling loop.
Don't forget to use the LED indicator lights, as explained in
the owner's manual, for verifying that all sensors are working.
Please note, the LED light will eventually turn off to save the
battery. IF you need to do more testing, disconnect and reconnect
the power cable from the bike mount and the LED's will work again.
Note, that the AVERAGE POWER computed by the system does not
include zero values (e.g. coasting). This differs from competing
systems.
Power Output Set
Installation